Many patients want to improve their appearance and reduce fine lines. What is the best way? What is the most cost-effective way? Who can you trust? Many companies put up before and after photos, but that is not always honest. Often, the lighting is changed to make wrinkles look less noticeable.
- Topical products: First of all, expect no more than 22% improvement with topical products. So, factor that in with cost to ask yourself if it is worth it. This does not include products that give an instant result in appearance, but have no long term benefit. Examples would include hyaluronic acids and products that have prisms that shine light into the crevices of the lines to make them appear less visible.
- Retinol or tretinoin: These products are well studies and work well. All retinols are not equal so do your homework and make sure that the results from that exact product are proven. You cannot trust photos alone.
- Peptides: This is a newer treatment and all peptides are not the same. Most companies use this as a buzz word to get your attention. Again, do your homework to ensure that this exact product is proven to do what it says. You cannot trust photos alone. Some peptides, like Argireline, can inhibit muscle contraction in a manner similar to toxins.
- Hyaluronic Acid: In humid environments, this hydrates the skin to temporarily reduce the appearance of fine lines. This does not permanently reduce fine lines.
- Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid): A strong antioxidant, Vitamin C helps increase collagen production and protects the skin from damage
- Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): This ingredient also acts as an antioxidant, improves skin tone and texture, and strengthens the skin barrier
- Dr. Bader recommends using this 3 product combination that has it all!!!! (click below):
2. Devices that increased blood flow to the skin
Red light treatment: Yes, red lights do help reduce fine lines if used consistently and with a FDA approved device. These can be purchased and used at home. This is what it can do:
Stimulates Collagen: Red light penetrates the skin and energizes fibroblast cells, increasing the production of collagen and elastin, the proteins that give skin its structure and elasticity.
Boosts Cell Energy: By getting absorbed by the mitochondria (the cells’ powerhouses), the light increases cellular energy, promoting repair and regeneration.
Reduces Inflammation: Red light has anti-inflammatory properties, which can help combat skin aging, as inflammation is a major contributor to the aging process.
3. Devices that generate heat, to stimulate collagen and elastin formation:
Non-ablative lasers: These have almost no downtime and damage collagen by creating heat. New collagen and elastin forms and reduces fine lines. Multiple sessions are often required and results are minimal to moderate at best.
Ablative lasers: The carbon dioxide laser has long been one of the most effective lasers in reducing fine lines and is still commonly used today. As this laser burns tiny holes in the skin, there is downtime that can be as few as 5-7 days to weeks or longer. Generally, the deeper the peel, the longer the downtime, the better the result in most cases.
Ultrasound: Ultherapy uses ultrasound beams to heat the skin. This has virtually no downtime and results are moderate. Multiple treatments are necessary for optimal results
Microneedling with radiofrequency: Electricity is sent down tiny needles to heat the skin. Precise depths and amounts of energy are delivered to achieve results. Results vary from provider to provider as settings vary. Depending upon the settings used, one or more sessions are needed for optimal results. Microneedling alone can be effective, but results are minimal at best.
4. Other Products that stimulate collagen formation
Sculptra: although usually used to create volume in the skin, dilute amounts can be injected to stimulate collagen formation in those with very sun damaged skin.
Threads: Sutures placed in the skin dissolve and stimulate collagen. While not good for general sun damage, this may be a good option for local areas where fine lines are worst. This procedure takes minutes and has almost no downtime.
Chemical peels: Medium depth peels, such as the TCA peel, is very effective at reducing fine lines. More superficial peels, such as glycolic acid, can be minimally helpful if multiple treatments are done.
Microneedling with PRP or Microneedling with PRF: Using one’s own blood, proteins that stimulate collagen formation are injected into the skin. This is followed by microneedling, which injures the skin, thus releasing proteins that stimulate collagen formation.